In the world of men’s fashion, the ability to effectively combine patterns and textures is what separates the stylish from the merely well-dressed. While many men stick to solid colors and simple combinations out of fear of making mistakes, mastering pattern and texture matching can transform your wardrobe and elevate your personal style to new heights.
Understanding the Fundamentals
Before diving into complex combinations, let’s break down the basic categories of patterns and textures you’ll encounter in menswear:
Patterns
- Checks and Plaids: From subtle windowpane to bold tartans
- Stripes: Including pinstripes, chalk stripes, awning stripes, and more
- Repeat Prints: Polka dots, paisley, florals, and geometric designs
- Animal Prints: Subtle leopard, snakeskin, etc. (use sparingly)
Textures
- Smooth: Worsted wool, cotton poplin, silk
- Rough: Tweed, flannel, corduroy, hopsack
- Raised: Velvet, suede, bouclé
- Woven: Knits, herringbone, seersucker
The difference between pattern and texture is simple: patterns are visual designs, while textures are about how the fabric feels and how light interacts with its surface. Both add depth and interest to your outfit, but in different ways.
The Golden Rules of Pattern Matching
1. Vary the Scale
The most fundamental rule when combining patterns is to vary their size. If you’re wearing a bold, large-checked blazer, pair it with a shirt featuring a much smaller pattern, like a fine striped or micro-dot design. This creates visual harmony rather than competition.
For example, a windowpane suit works beautifully with a thin-striped shirt and a small polka dot tie. The varying scales ensure each piece complements rather than fights with the others.
2. Mix Pattern Types
While it’s possible to combine similar patterns (stripes with stripes, for instance), it’s generally easier to mix different types. A classic combination is pairing a checked jacket with a striped shirt and a floral or paisley tie.
If you do want to combine the same pattern family, ensure they differ significantly in scale and possibly color intensity. A bold Bengal stripe shirt can work with a subtle pinstripe suit because the scale difference is obvious.
3. Maintain a Color Theme
When combining multiple patterns, use color as the unifying element. Choose a core color palette and ensure each patterned piece contains at least one of these colors. This creates cohesion even among diverse patterns.
For instance, if your navy suit has a subtle red windowpane check, a light blue shirt with thin red stripes, and a burgundy tie with navy accents would create a harmonious look despite the different patterns.
4. Follow the Major-Minor-Major Approach
A tried-and-tested formula for pattern matching is the major-minor-major approach:
- Major: A dominant pattern (like your jacket or suit)
- Minor: A subtle, quieter pattern (often your shirt)
- Major: Another assertive pattern (typically your tie or pocket square)
This creates balance and prevents your outfit from becoming visually overwhelming.
5. Know When to Use Solids
Solids are the perfect way to balance a pattern-heavy outfit. If you’re wearing two bold patterns, incorporate solid pieces as visual resting points. A solid shirt can balance patterned trousers and a patterned jacket, for instance.
Texture Matching: The Overlooked Dimension
While pattern matching gets most of the attention, texture matching is equally important for creating sophisticated outfits.
1. Contrast Textures for Interest
Just as with patterns, contrasting textures create visual interest. Pair smooth with rough, raised with woven. A sleek worsted wool suit looks excellent with a textured knit tie, while a rough tweed jacket pairs beautifully with a smooth silk pocket square.
2. Consider the Season
Textures have strong seasonal associations. Heavier textures like tweed, flannel, and corduroy belong in fall and winter, while lighter ones like linen, seersucker, and fine cotton are perfect for spring and summer. Respect these seasonal boundaries for the most appropriate looks.
3. Balance is Key
Too many heavy textures can make an outfit look bulky, while too many smooth textures might appear flat and uninteresting. Aim for balance with a mix of different texture types.
4. Use Texture to Elevate Monochrome Outfits
If you’re wearing a monochromatic outfit, different textures prevent it from looking flat. A navy suit, navy shirt, and navy tie would be boring in identical fabrics, but become sophisticated when the suit is worsted wool, the shirt is cotton twill, and the tie is a textured silk knit.
Practical Pattern & Texture Combinations
Let’s look at some practical examples of how to combine patterns and textures effectively:
Business Attire
- The Classic Combination: Navy suit with subtle windowpane (main pattern) + light blue shirt with thin stripes (subtle pattern) + burgundy tie with small geometric print (accent pattern)
- The Textural Business Look: Charcoal flannel suit (textured solid) + crisp white poplin shirt (smooth solid) + knitted silk tie in burgundy (textured solid) + patterned pocket square that incorporates both burgundy and charcoal
Smart Casual
- The Weekend Winner: Brown tweed sports jacket (textured pattern) + solid light blue Oxford shirt (subtle texture) + dark jeans (smooth texture) + patterned wool pocket square
- The Creative Professional: Navy hopsack blazer (textured solid) + micro-gingham shirt in light blue (subtle pattern) + camel chinos (smooth solid) + knit tie with horizontal stripes (textured pattern)
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Matching patterns exactly: Your patterns should coordinate, not match precisely. Identical patterns in different garments often look contrived.
- Using too many bold patterns: Limit yourself to one or two dominant patterns per outfit.
- Ignoring scale: Combining patterns of similar size creates visual competition.
- Forgetting about texture: Don’t focus solely on pattern while neglecting the textural elements of your outfit.
- Going too busy: When in doubt, simplify. It’s better to be slightly understated than overwhelmingly complex.
Building Your Pattern & Texture Confidence
If you’re new to pattern and texture matching, start small:
- Begin with accessories: Add a patterned tie or pocket square to a solid outfit.
- Try the one-pattern approach: Wear a single patterned item with everything else solid.
- Master two-pattern combinations before attempting three or more.
- Practice with foolproof combinations: Striped shirt with a check jacket, or a subtle plaid suit with a solid shirt and patterned tie.
Conclusion
Pattern and texture matching isn’t just about following rules—it’s about developing an eye for what works together. The guidelines outlined here provide a foundation, but don’t be afraid to experiment and develop your personal style.
Remember that confidence is key when playing with patterns and textures. Wear your carefully crafted combinations with assurance, and you’ll not only look stylish but feel it too. Even with a limited wardrobe, thoughtful pattern and texture matching can multiply your outfit possibilities and transform your approach to getting dressed.
With practice, you’ll find that mixing patterns and textures becomes intuitive, allowing you to create distinctive, sophisticated looks that express your personality while adhering to the timeless principles of men’s style.
